One travel memory I’ll never forget: arriving in Québec City on a particularly stormy, frosty February evening, literally running out of Château Frontenac to find myself standing on the mid-point landing of Escalier Casse-Cou (the aptly named Breakneck Stairs). As blankets of snow suddenly rendered the city mute and stilled all motion on the streets, the comforting, muffled silence of snow pressed in on all my senses. Ignoring my rapidly numbing digits, I pulled my film camera to capture the scene below me: pools of amber light on a dark, snow-filled street in Petit-Champlain, its architecture looking exactly as I imagined it did centuries ago.
I’d been to Québec City only the summer prior, but somehow, this experience trumped it all. The storybook magic of it, the way the city truly froze in its tracks as the snow drove down, down, down (I kept expecting it to relent and it never did, and I drifted off to sleep later that evening to the sight of it continuing to drive down). I risked life and limb to descend down those steps to explore more of the very silent streets; so silent, they should’ve been eerie, but somehow it was just a deep sense of comfort and nostalgia that followed me as I wove my way through the narrow lanes of Old Québec, the Château Frontenac looming above like a solemn sentry with its lit windows and promise of warmth nearby.
I tend to have very few high-definition memories thanks to a fun little combination of trauma and concussions, so the ones that linger with me are truly there for a reason. I really treasure and am so grateful that this is one that I can recall in such fine detail, because it’s one of my more beautiful travel memories that I turn to whenever I think of winter (or need a dose of comfort).
So while so many of us are planning our escapes to somewhere warm, I really encourage you (especially if the you I’m speaking to happens to be Canadian…elbows up!) to experience the winter magic that is Québec City. If you’re wondering whether Québec City is worth visiting in the winter, well…if my recounting of that magical February evening alone does not convince you, the list below will. Old Québec and Petit-Champlain are magical in and of themselves, but some of the city’s best-known and truly unique experiences (Carnaval de Québec, Hôtel de Glace and the Dufferin Terrace toboggan slide, to name a few) only really come alive at this time of year. In other words, winter isn’t a season to escape from here, but one to experience in full colour and all its magic.
As promised, some highlights from this particular trip that just made me fall in love all over again with my original home province (yes, this die-hard West Coast girl is actually originally from Québec: French was my first language, something I have to remind myself of all the time because it’s been woefully underused lately!). And I’m pretty certain it’ll have you dreaming of a wintry visit too.
Things to Do in Québec City in Winter
Québec Winter Carnival / Carnaval de Québec
I’m not usually one to travel for festivals or big events, I’d rather really soak in a place during the stretches of its usual day-to-day rhythm. But I would travel again for Carnival. I was here in Québec City during a particularly hard time in my life, and this specific trip was the first time I’d left Cal for more than a few days and I was honestly really struggling in so many different ways. It was just the perfect place for me to go and just feel…alive again.
The energy is so palpable in the city during Carnival, there’s so much to do and everything feels like a celebration. One thing I admire so much about this province in general is that the snow and freezing (and I mean freezing; it was -30!) temps never stop them from having a good time. Experiencing Carnival in person is just going to make you fall for winter in general, and it’s a lesson to take with you no matter what your winter looks like at home (in my case, grey, rainy and dark here in Vancouver).
The 2027 Québec Winter Carnival runs February 5–14.
Hôtel de Glace: Québec City’s Ice Hotel
Another thing that usually wouldn’t be on my bucket list but that I’m so glad I got to experience was the Ice Hotel; I thought it’d be gimmicky but it wasn’t at all. Not only is it actually a functioning hotel (so yes, people are indeed electing to sleep on ice!), but the artistry and craftsmanship that goes into each room and really every corner of the Ice Hotel is just worth seeing.
Grab a frozen cocktail in an ice flute, take in the whole tour…and then in all likelihood, return to the warmth of your unfrozen hotel. For winter 2027, Hôtel de Glace is scheduled to open January 4 through March 13.
Place Royale
As a photographer, I could come here endlessly and find a new angle or inspiration. This is where Samuel de Champlain founded Québec in 1608, on the site of his original “Abitation,” and today it’s considered one of the historic hearts of Old Québec.
Old Québec Funicular / Funiculaire
It’s all of a minute long, but it’s less worth doing for the experience itself, and more so for the history. This funicular has been in operation since 1879, connecting Dufferin Terrace to the lower grounds of Petit-Champlain.
Also, a major convenience factor here…I’m a big walker, but with a little one or just too much wine or a particularly rich meal (kind of a Québécois specialty, particularly in the winter), I’d much rather ride this up to Dufferin Terrace than navigate the icy hills and steps of Escalier Casse-Cou.
Au 1884 Toboggan Slide on Dufferin Terrace
You absolutely have to do this. Built in 1884 (hence the name), this wooden slide can reach speeds up to 70km/h as you literally whip down the side of Dufferin Terrace with the sub-zero temperatures whipping against your raw face. Exhilarating, and exfoliating!
Ice Skating in Québec City
You won’t have any shortage of rinks to choose from, but it’s just such a truly magical moment, the kind of true winter experience to have in Québec City that can’t be replicated anywhere else. Stop by any rink, get a rental and lace up!
Québec City Christmas Market
The one thing I have not experienced but would absolutely love to is the Québec City German Christmas Market. I can think of few places in the world where it would be a more magical experience; for 2026, it runs November 19 through December 23 across several sites in Old Québec.
If you have been, please let me know any tips for dates to target or other ways to experience it to best effect! Trying to see if I can plot an escape for Cal and I for this coming winter.
Where to Stay in Québec City in Winter
Two places I can recommend with full confidence as I’ve stayed at both: Fairmont Le Château Frontenac and Hôtel Nomad, both located right in Old Québec.
Obviously, the former is very famous and with good reason. It lived up to its iconic status in my opinion during my stay there, and you really couldn’t be based more conveniently to take in everything, which is a big deal in the winter when you don’t want to be making huge treks in the snow just to get back to warmth.
I stayed at Hôtel Nomad in the summer, but it’s located very conveniently as well and was such a special hotel experience; they really thoughtfully designed the space. Both options are steeped in history so you couldn’t go wrong with either.
Where to Eat and Drink in Québec City
As far as where to eat, you could honestly go just about anywhere and find great food. It’s truly a culture and legacy of incredible culinary arts in la belle province. I’ve had memorable experiences at Karibu, Le Chic Shack and Restaurant Le Clan, and if you’re a coffee fanatic like me, you will find so many options from Cantook to Apotek to Nektar.
A local who knows better may disagree with me, but other than obvious tourist traps, I found it really hard to find a bad flat white (in that I never did) or a bad meal.
If you missed it, I have my Québec City summer guide here. What’s left for me now is just to experience it in the fall and spring as well! I hope you get a chance to experience its magic for yourself.
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